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By Götz Gutdeutsch
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Extra resources for Building In Wood
If you are using the oil-bath, “deep-fryer” method for tempering, the blade won’t present the tempering colors because the oil prevents oxygen from creating the colorful oxides on the steel surface. Trust the thermometer and the method, then remove the blade from the oil or just turn off the heat and let it cool. You’re done! If the blade looks awful, you can sandblast or grind it pretty but it should work well regardless. If you’ve made a plane iron or a chisel, be sure to grind back the bevel a bit before honing.
Be prepared for the oil to catch fire – don’t hold the blade in such a way that your hand (or your face) is directly above it (photo 6). For uniform cooling, move the piece up and down in the oil. If you swirl it around, there is a risk that it will cool faster on one side which could lead to warpage. The piece should be tempered as soon as it has cooled to about 150° F (65° C). Without tempering it will be very hard and too brittle to use. You can check for hardness with a file. There will probably be a thin, soft skin on the piece due to decarburization, so the file may grab that decarburized skin, which is soft.
Some compounds of other colors are simply aluminum oxide with colorant added to differentiate them. indd 48 Chromium oxide grains at 1500x magnification. others’ experiences to make an informed choice. Most of these compounds are quite affordable, so direct experimentation contains little risk. It never hurts to try something new or different and if you like the way it works, please spread the word. But some compounds are formulated for polishing materials that are softer than hardened tool steel and, while they may eventually work on your blade, it’ll tend to be very slow going.
Building In Wood by Götz Gutdeutsch